Finally have a Centaur

dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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As many of you guys know I've been wanting a Centaur for years. I was one of the biggest cheerleaders during that first Bally poll that FarSight did, what, three years ago? Though I liked playing TPA's version, I wanted the real thing. I wanted the reverb echoing in my house. BUT, this game, like other Bally SS classics like Fathom, Eight Ball Deluxe, etc has gotten pricey. I saw one at the York Show three years ago and they guy wanted $2,500 firm with a worn playfield and non-working. He DID sell it though. Just nuts how these games are shooting up because some people are willing to pay for it.

Fast forward to this past year's York Show. I go by myself (Dad didn't want to come this year) in my Subaru Forester which I can fit a pin in. With the seats folded down and a sheet of plexiglass, a game will slide in easily. Pile some blankets on and I'm ready to head back up RT 30. Rain, which it did, didn't matter. Game is in the car. It can rain all it wants.

Anyway, I get to the show at opening on Friday. I immediately start running around looking for either a Centaur or a BSD. I see a guy with a project, non-working Centaur inside the building and off to the side from the free play area. I talk to the guy who has a few other games for sale. He said he picked it up from an estate auction and it's sold as untested. Of course it's "untested"! It's missing the freaking solenoid driver board! It's also filthy and smells of piss inside. BUT, it has a fairly unworn, but yellowed, playfield because an operator back in the old days mylar'd it. The mylar had just some minor lifting at some edges but the inserts were fairly decent. Any of you guys that have played older games with the sinking inserts can tell you that it can divert the ball sometimes. But, because this game has a decent mylar on it, it's still fairly smooth across the playfield.

In addition to a workable playfield, the back glass was original and almost 100%. The guy had 2k listed as the price. I just kept staring at it. I had him open it up. I looked if it was a hacked mess. Other than someone screwing with the flipper wiring, it looked pretty original. While I was looking at it, other people were stopping and asking about it. The big negative was some serious damage to the one side of the cabinet. It looked like water or urine that completely destroyed a center section of that side about ten inches in diameter. It didn't go all the way through but eliminated the art and the outer layer of plywood in that area. Nonetheless, people were asking about it. You have to understand that it's getting harder and harder to find some of these games at pinball shows as projects. Mostly, if you see them, they're completely restored and highly priced.

The guy tells me that, before I offer him a price, the lowest he'll take is $1,750 because he knows he's going to sell it. I stare a little more and, eventually say "I do. :p " We load it up and I carted it home.

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EldarOfSuburbia

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Great to see you finally got your.... strange mutant half-person, half-motorcycle?!

Keep us posted on the restoration efforts!
 

dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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So, with winter coming, wanted to get this game done before it gets really cold in my garage. Honestly, it's a mess. It stinks. There's varmit hair everywhere. Rust a plenty. Most of the connectors are not attached. The MPU still has the original battery which has corroded the hell out of the board along with the lamp driver board underneath. And there's almost a hole in the one side of the cabinet. The display boards are covered in filth and I'm worrying that none of them will work.

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dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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So, first. I just strip all the wiring harnesses from the cabinet and back box. And wash them. Here's an example. This is the cabinet wiring including the tilt mechanisms along with the power switch.

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dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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Then, my father, who works with fiberglass, repairs the damage to the cabinet. It's not perfect and I'm sure others can do better but it looks ok and it's on the side that you don't see in my game room. I don't have a picture but he basically filled it with a flat black compound that blends with the rest of the black of the cabinet.

I then 409'd and Mean Green'd the hell out of the cabinet.
 
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dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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Then, I took the original grayish black Bally legs (which were rusted) and sanded them down and repainted them a hammered black. Afterwards I misted on a chrome spray to give them a speckled look. I completely disassembled the coin door and cleaned it. I applied a new Bally Susan B Anthony Dollar sticker along with polishing the shooter knob and a new barrel spring.

 

dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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Then I spent money. A lot of money. Didn't want to. But, them's the breaks. Bought a new Alltek MPU, Solenoid Driver, and Lamp Driver Board. I didn't have the equipment to properly repair the MPU and I wanted to run LED's so I bought the lamp board as well. I also, bought the replacement "say it again" board. This is the board that makes the voice reverb. Completely unique to this game. While I did get the original board, it is a known issue that an UN-replaceable chip on this board is prone to failure. I found that my board, while somewhat working after cleaning and replacing the caps, did not work 100%. The main problem was it generated a ton of feedback noise through the speaker.

Speaking of boards, lets get that over with. All the original boards have had their connector pins resoldered.

MPU - New Alltek
Solenoid Driver - New Alltek
Lamp Driver - New Alltek
Aux Lamp Driver - Original with all three chips replaced
Power Supply - Original with all components replaced. Everything except the connectors has been replaced on this board.
Say It Again - New repro board
Display driver boards - all original except one which had a fried display. Replaced with a PinScore.
Squawk and Talk Board - Original with all 16 caps replaced.

Under the playfield are two tiny boards - both original
Aux Driver - makes the GI flash and turn off at the start of multiball
Solenoid Expander - I think this manages the outhole kicker.

Couple other notes

New rubbers and balls
New plastic set from CPR
New leg levelers and bolts.
Flippers completely rebuilt
All 12 drop targets replaced.
 
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dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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Anywho, this was a pain in the butt to finish. Especially, since I never worked on a Bally before. But, she's done and dragged up to my game room. Piece by piece since I have to do it myself. I'll have some more pics in the future but I'm happy it's done with. Pinball repair has become tiring for me....

Oh, and one side note. Those old Bose bookshelf speakers sitting on top. They're going to be hooked up with an old Yamaha receiver I still have. Centaur's gonna sing...LOUD.

 
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Kolchak357

Senior Pigeon
May 31, 2012
8,102
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Glad you finally found one. I know you had been searching pin shows the last couple of years. The playfield looked pretty good. How was the playfield after closer inspection?
Shame you had to replace so much of the guts. But the lighting and sound are great In your vid!
 

dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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From my understanding Bally did not mylar their games but would supply a sheet to the operator to do themself. This one was applied decently but wasnt perfect at a couple edges so they started to lift. I took a razor blade and cut the lifting edges back to where it still stuck to the playfield. I then used alcohol to remove the sticky residue. Because this game had mylar on it most of its life, there's really no wear on the majority of the playfield. Only in the upper and lower lanes was it not covered. I did do some touch up in those spots. Very minor. The black is easy. Matching the yellowed white is not.

I'm gonna try to some of my close up ball shots but it may be difficult because of the way the mylar reflects the light. We'll see.

And one minor tidbit. As you can see in the vid, Centaur is much faster and brutal in real life. I love it. :)
 
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Kolchak357

Senior Pigeon
May 31, 2012
8,102
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such a great pin. Can't really think of a negative with Centaur. Aren't many pins you can say that about. It's the total package.
 

dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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Believe me, the less I had to replace, the better. But, to use LED's in these Bally's or early Sterns, you need either the Alltek board, those harness connectors or put resistors on just about every light socket. I didn't have the equipment to properly clean the MPU and there was no solenoid driver board.

One thing I'd definitely recommend Centaur owners to buy is the replacement "say it again" board. Not only are the originals prone to failure but the new one can be set to be much more aggressive with the reverb than the original.
 

dtown8532

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Apr 10, 2012
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Thank you guys for the complements. I had a chance tonight to take a couple photos. I really like the pic the lady holding the ball in B&W. It's kinda a mind f*ck the way it's rotated. Almost like the ball is growing from the playfield. By the way, the lady was a student of the artist, Paul Faris, who he used for this character.











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