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Message: <blockquote data-quote="SKILL_SHOT" data-source="post: 33701" data-attributes="member: 837">Ok update!So I've been familiarising myself with the ins and outs of the table,first I gave it a nice wipe down with diluted simple green and warm water on a washcloth and finger rubbed the adhesive left on by who knows what. I placed an order for x2 clear red flipper buttons, a shooter rod with knob BLACK (it comes attached as it probablly molded on) a new outer chrome spring for said rod, 5 new silver jet balls, a rubber kit (white) and a pack of 10 bulbs #89 and #44 and right after I placed the order a #555 bulb burnt but Im going to go LED on this and Im going to piece a kit together since there are different effects from an LED bulb such as GI lighting or lense lighting. Ok so I did'nt order any NOVUS cleaner because I've heard mixed reviews about #1 of the 3 stage process it sounds like a plastic safe degreaser/cleaner like windex simple green enless it has a special UV coating? and NOVUS #2 is a mild abrasive witch removes dirt and small swirls witch got me thinking so i ran out to my garage and found a bottle of NU FINISH SCRATCH DOCTOR with micro polish....hmmm.I first used a small amount only on the mylar/plastic covering in a discreet area if it caused damage A. I would'nt notice so much and B. it would'nt affect play until I bought a new one but it didn't damage it it did what I had hoped it would and bring out some shine, so I tried a non mylar protected area again a small discreet spot...PERFECT!<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> I proceeded to whipe down what I could with it and then decided I wanted to wax it I have NU FINISH wax but after reading its a petroleum distolate and it smells like it! Basically it smells like GASOLINE and you dont want vapors building up in an enclosed box with electrical sparks ok. So I tried some instant detail spray on a rag then flipped and buffed, did this 3 times and it plays like glass<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> I also micro polished and waxed the balls.So after a few really quick games witch tottaly affected my score for the worse, it started doing something weird? Usually if you shoot a ball into a lock lit cannon it locks , witch it did until you shot from the plunger then it would spit it out and it would be a faux/fake 2 ball multi ball and never letting it lock for a 3 ball multi ball. I tried googling this problem and found that its a common problem but nobody had an answer. I found another owner on PINSIDER who owns the table with tha same problem so i messaged him and he responded but didn't have a solution. So after further inspection I found that a resistor had broken from a switch. This made sense as to why it was behaving like that. Normally when the lock is lit the CPU looks for resistance in the cannon lock but without the resistor connected the CPU never seen the shot and it treated it like a normal cannon shot, so i re-solderd on the resistor and BAM!!! ITS ALIVE! confidence +1 my first time soldering EVER! and probably not my last<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> Oh I had a solder set already so as far as buying tools Im pretty set I have a garage full! Im a gear head.</blockquote>

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