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My Pinball Arcade Cabinet (iPinCade)
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<blockquote data-quote="Codeena" data-source="post: 76973" data-attributes="member: 2576"><p>You're welcome. Sorry, my reply to your width question is above on this page-not sure why it showed up as a reply to a reply-The playfield width is 10" wide, and the backglass is 11.25" wide. </p><p></p><p>The 1/8" thick board (has a contact paper on it) is only surrounded by the 1/4" wide by 3/8" tall weatherstrip. The iPad rests directly on the board and the strips keep it from moving around too much. Yes, the bezel just lays on top of the iPad and weatherstrip-I was going to use velcro but find it unnecessary. So the weatherstrip makes a little box shape where the iPad fits around, and it's easy to pick up the iPad. </p><p></p><p>The lockdown bar is just mounted to the cabinet with double-stick mounting tape.</p><p></p><p>I made the start and plunger holes the same way as you would pinball buttons: 1.375" drill spade about 1/2 way through the wood, then 1" for the button shafts. They are illuminated pushbuttons from Happ, around 1.25" bezel. The shafts are smaller than standard pushbuttons. Eventually, I may add a battery-powered light to them. </p><p></p><p>Good to know about Black Knight's button. I actually was going to do 4 buttons on the front, which I could've fit, but like the coin door look. My 3rd mini button is the table select-up button now (since it's closest to the launch/down-select). I have 2 holes for mini buttons in the back for up and down, if I need to move them. Plus I have a normal sized pushbutton in the back. </p><p></p><p>For the bezel, I was originally hoping for FS it so the entire game could be navigated without the touchscreen. Then I was going to make a plexiglass bezel. But I decided prefer the open bezel. I can use the on-screen plunger the way it was intended (for non-pushbutton launch titles). Plus, I could easily switch views. Lastly, it's easier to take off the bezel this way.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Codeena, post: 76973, member: 2576"] You're welcome. Sorry, my reply to your width question is above on this page-not sure why it showed up as a reply to a reply-The playfield width is 10" wide, and the backglass is 11.25" wide. The 1/8" thick board (has a contact paper on it) is only surrounded by the 1/4" wide by 3/8" tall weatherstrip. The iPad rests directly on the board and the strips keep it from moving around too much. Yes, the bezel just lays on top of the iPad and weatherstrip-I was going to use velcro but find it unnecessary. So the weatherstrip makes a little box shape where the iPad fits around, and it's easy to pick up the iPad. The lockdown bar is just mounted to the cabinet with double-stick mounting tape. I made the start and plunger holes the same way as you would pinball buttons: 1.375" drill spade about 1/2 way through the wood, then 1" for the button shafts. They are illuminated pushbuttons from Happ, around 1.25" bezel. The shafts are smaller than standard pushbuttons. Eventually, I may add a battery-powered light to them. Good to know about Black Knight's button. I actually was going to do 4 buttons on the front, which I could've fit, but like the coin door look. My 3rd mini button is the table select-up button now (since it's closest to the launch/down-select). I have 2 holes for mini buttons in the back for up and down, if I need to move them. Plus I have a normal sized pushbutton in the back. For the bezel, I was originally hoping for FS it so the entire game could be navigated without the touchscreen. Then I was going to make a plexiglass bezel. But I decided prefer the open bezel. I can use the on-screen plunger the way it was intended (for non-pushbutton launch titles). Plus, I could easily switch views. Lastly, it's easier to take off the bezel this way. [/QUOTE]
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Mar 3, 2025
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