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Message: <blockquote data-quote="dtown8532" data-source="post: 72683" data-attributes="member: 320">Jared made some excellent points so I won't repeat what he said.       1.  My first piece of advice is no more playing until you get new balls and have cleaned and waxed the playfield.  Continuing to play on a dirty and unwaxed                   playfield will further wear the paint down, especially in areas that it's already worn.     2.  I use Novus 2 for cleaning and straight carnauba wax (no cleaning agents) for waxing.  Clean terry cloth towel for applying the Novus and another clean terry cloth towel for wiping it off once it dry's.  Same procedure for the wax.  Usually two coats of Novus and 2-3 coats of wax.       3.  Speaking of cleaning, I still don't like taking everything off at once so I will work on one section of the playfield at a time.  This way it's easier to remember how to put it back together.  For example, the right flipper area.  I would remove the flipper assembly from under the playfield (leaving the coil still soldered) and clean everything.  With metal I prefer Never Dull.  Wipe it with a piece of the Never Dull, then wipe off with a rag.  I remove the plastic sleeve from the coil and either replace it (they're pretty cheap, just get the right length) or clean it in soapy water with a cheapo brass brush (looks like a tooth brush) and a bore brush from a gun cleaning kit.  It's important to get the inside of the sleeve clean so the metal plunger can move freely.  Check the strength of your springs.  In fact, the playfield up (and machine off in the interest of safety) manually move all your coil mechanisms.  Do they all move freely?  Do the springs push them back with enough strength?  Anyway, back to the flipper area.  With the flipper off, also remove the right metal inlane/outlane guide.  Polish the metal with Never Dull and wipe off with rag.  Do the same to the screw heads as well.  Replace single 44 bulb with either a 47 (less heat) or a 44 type LED (color is up to you) Take off the plastic nuts that hold on the right slingshot cover.  Be careful when putting these back on.  They're only plastic, or nylon, but whatever.  Point is they crack easily.  Take off plastic slingshot cover and clean with warm soapy water while being careful with the artwork on the back.  Polish with Novus 1 spray.  Remove red plastic posts and clean with warm soapy water and a toothbrush.  Remove slingshot assembly and clean like you did to the flipper parts.  Check your linkage that attaches to the metal plunger.  A little play is ok as long as it's operating fine while playing.  Remove 44 bulb and replace like above.  Rubber kit will also need to be ordered.  Replace all rubbers.  See those little metal brass thingy's sticking up next to the sling shot kicker?  They're switches and the contacts get dirty.  Care must be maintained while cleaning.  I use 90% or more alcohol on cheap dollar store q-tips since they don't rip and get fuzzies as easy as the name brand.  Gently move the dipped q-tip in between the switch contacts.  When cleaning a really tight switch I'll use a business card instead.  Alcohol is great for cleaning electronics since it evaporates quickly.  It also tastes good too.   Anyway, while you have all this off clean this whole area with Novus 2 till it shines and then use the wax.  Reassemble and move onto another area.          4.  Inserts can be cleaned from under the playfield with windex on a q-tip.     5.  One thing to remember is to do everything you're going to do to one area while you have it apart.  That way you minimize taking out screws and putting them back in.  If you have a worn out hole that won't take the screw, DO NOT use a bigger screw.  Break off some toothpicks and plug the hole better.  This will give you a better grip.     6.  Points about some of the things you said in your photos.  Your left inlane/outlane guide should not have a post with a rubber on it at the top.  It's just a metal screw inside a metal sleeve.  Your broken bumper skirt should be easily replaceable.  You need a new flipper bat, also not hard to get.  Spacing the targets is done by carefully bending them to where you want them.  They'll only go so far and be especially careful with the 30+ year old plastic lollipop target.  BUT, check under the playfield where they're mounted.  They should be mounted by two front mount screws that are positioned vertically away from the target.  These are not common anymore so some people replace with front horizontally mounted one's and didn't drill new holes properly so they'd be out of line.  Also, you could just have some loose screws which is another thing to look for everywhere else on the table too.  Your table wear is a little worse than mine but I have a spot at each of the slings that needs to be taken care of.  The guys are correct in that you can clean it, mylar those areas and you should be fine.  Personally, I think I'm gonna try my hand at touching it up before putting the mylar on.  I just don't like the idea of putting mylar over bare wood but it's definitely something that I'll have to be very careful with.     7.  The white piece of wood that holds the score displays can be cleaned with windex on a rag.  Just remove all those bulbs, which by the way, if you're not gonna replace them all, at least replace all the bulbs that have burnt heads.  If I was staying with incandescents, I'd replace all the 44's with 47's.  All the bulbs in Firepower are these except the two flashers under FIRE and POWER which are 89's.     8.  Bottom line is, TAKE YOUR TIME.  The machine isn't going anywhere.  The sooner you get it cleaned and ready to play the sooner you'll get bored with it and want another.  Maybe. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />  For example, today I spent about five hours on mine.  What did I accomplish?  Disassembly of the coin door mechanism and cleaned along with coin slots.  Grounding braid to coin door reconnected by solder (was broken).  Removal of power switch and cleaned.  Removal of cabinet tilt mechanisms and cleaned.  Wiring in this area cleaned with windex and rags.  New legs arrived from Pinball Life, installed.  Bottom speaker removed and metal parts cleaned with rag and windex.  Speaker reattached properly.  Was only connected with two screws and ground was not connected.  Fixed with four bolts and nuts and ground braid reconnected.  All under playfield bulbs removed.  Bonus light strip, shoot again and six target light inserts cleaned.  Light strip for bonus lights must be removed for replacement of bulbs.  Two 5/16" (I think) lock nuts attached to screw in posts hold it on.  These bulbs have been replaced with LED's according to Cointaker's kit diagram.  That's it.  Five hours and that's what I accomplished.  It takes time if you really want to get it nice.  Well, that's all I got for now.  Waiting on my filter caps and fuses so I can get to work inside the backbox.</blockquote>

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