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Well, Now I Own A Pinball Machine Too!
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<blockquote data-quote="jaredmorgs" data-source="post: 73393" data-attributes="member: 459"><p>I'm with S_S on this. You can look at it two ways. A $500 mistake, or a $500 golden opportunity. </p><p></p><p>Use it as your "roughy" to experiment on and cut your restoration teeth on. Here are some approaches based on what you've told us so far.</p><p></p><p>==Playfield==</p><p></p><p>=DIY=</p><p></p><p>Learn from it.</p><p></p><p>- check for Planet overlays.</p><p>- investigate how to service the playfield lenses (drill out/heat gun out and touch up numbers?)</p><p>- practice mixing paint and matching colours</p><p>- research which paint is best</p><p>- watch heaps of YouTube videos on pait restoration.</p><p>- watch heaps of videos on automotive clear-coating (basically what Diamond Plate on modern playfields is).</p><p></p><p>=Outsource=</p><p></p><p>TNT Amusements can quote you as a starting point (I would recommend them from the quality of their YouTube restoration videos). They have turned around absolutely shocking tables for around $1000. Expect *far less* if you only want the playfield touched-up and protected with mylar.</p><p></p><p>- source info about how much it would cost to get the playfield restored (minor touch-up is within the realms of a novice, but not planet repair...) </p><p>- Ask the dudes on Craigs List that restore and sell. They may be cheaper than TNT. </p><p>- strip the playfield and ship it, or send the machine over and have them restore the playfield? Ask them what is better/easier/most cost effective.</p><p>- Someone may even have an old FP playfield in better condition they could sell you, or restore from a better starting state. Worth asking, and may be cheaper.</p><p>- How much for them to just do the Playfield touchup, and all physical repairs?</p><p></p><p>==Mechanics==</p><p></p><p>Get it working mechanically yourself. A well-working table will sell much better than a busted one. Even with sound board issues:</p><p></p><p>Flippers: </p><p>- should be priority No. 1. They are the link the player has between their fingers and the ball. Critical... </p><p>- Refurbish all components to new, except for the coil and the mounting plate (based on other posts and your info and photos). </p><p>- Everyone is right. Spend the money/budget for this.</p><p></p><p>Pops:</p><p>- Get new bumber skirts (the plastic switch actuators) for all bumpers, even if some are OK. Keep them in stock, or choose to replace all four and start from an as-new baseline (I would).</p><p>- Check the white plactic hollow things the bumber cap screws into. These may be cracked due to the ball hitting up against the plastic.</p><p>- Check the contacts, and ensure you give the contacts a polish with a matte business card, or use contact cleaner. Press the business card between the contacts and rub back and forwards to clean.</p><p></p><p>Slings:</p><p>- Replace the linkages and sleeves. Check for coil stop mushrooming. File back if they are not that bad.</p><p>- Check the contacts, and ensure you give the contacts a polish with a matte business card.</p><p></p><p>Stand-ups:</p><p>- You're already on your way with those. See how much a new set it. Never hurts to budget long term.</p><p></p><p>Rubbers:</p><p></p><p>With strong flippers, you need to have good surfaces for the balls to bang up against. Perished, flaky rubbers are not good. They will not protect the 30yr old plastic posts from the shock of a metal ball slamming up against them. Not really optional, and not that expensive to replace a whole set. Use the firepower site as a reference to create a full list of rubbers required.</p><p></p><p>Balls:</p><p></p><p>- With new flippers and rubbers, those balls will be flying fast. So make sure they are in perfect condition. </p><p>New set of balls. Stop any further playfield wear with smooth, nick-free metal.</p><p></p><p>==Sound Board==</p><p></p><p>- investigate the cost of a new sound board, or whether you can work around that by researching on the firepower pinball site or other pinball forums. Can you replace the sound board circuitry with a P-ROC board/s (S_S is this possible?)</p><p></p><p>==Circuit Boards==</p><p></p><p>You know the Driver board and game logic board are working correctly, so that is one less thing to be concerned about. There are some things you should consider doing though.</p><p>- Ensure you remove each board, and number each plug when you remove each board so you don't mess up the connections. </p><p>- Reflow silver solder on all connectors. Future proofing, and ensures a good electrical connection.</p><p>- Research quirks from this era of pinball tables and implement all fixes recommended.</p><p>- Do a continuity check on all fuses (like another person recommended). And ensure they are the correct ones (you'd be surprised...)</p><p></p><p>==Cabinet==</p><p></p><p>- Take off all backboard lights and wipe down the white board with windex and a cloth.</p><p>- Research how to fix the backglass paintjob (not for novices), or get a new repro mylar to replace the damaged one (and a new piece of glass to suit). Which approach is cheaper?</p><p>- Vacuum out the cabinet, and give it a wipe out. It will make a huge difference when you're working on it.</p><p></p><p>==LEDs==</p><p></p><p>Installing LEDs into this machine will dramatically increase the reliability of the circuits for General Illumination (GI) and game lights (much less current draw means much less heat on the plugs, and therefore much less chance of dry solder joints in the future). Not to mention it makes the lightshows of this machine look spectacular when played "in the dark".</p><p></p><p>==SUMMARY==</p><p></p><p>Take your time. Scope everything correctly. Make lists (like I have just done for you as a start).</p><p></p><p>Remember how you go about eating an elephant. One small piece at a time...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jaredmorgs, post: 73393, member: 459"] I'm with S_S on this. You can look at it two ways. A $500 mistake, or a $500 golden opportunity. Use it as your "roughy" to experiment on and cut your restoration teeth on. Here are some approaches based on what you've told us so far. ==Playfield== =DIY= Learn from it. - check for Planet overlays. - investigate how to service the playfield lenses (drill out/heat gun out and touch up numbers?) - practice mixing paint and matching colours - research which paint is best - watch heaps of YouTube videos on pait restoration. - watch heaps of videos on automotive clear-coating (basically what Diamond Plate on modern playfields is). =Outsource= TNT Amusements can quote you as a starting point (I would recommend them from the quality of their YouTube restoration videos). They have turned around absolutely shocking tables for around $1000. Expect *far less* if you only want the playfield touched-up and protected with mylar. - source info about how much it would cost to get the playfield restored (minor touch-up is within the realms of a novice, but not planet repair...) - Ask the dudes on Craigs List that restore and sell. They may be cheaper than TNT. - strip the playfield and ship it, or send the machine over and have them restore the playfield? Ask them what is better/easier/most cost effective. - Someone may even have an old FP playfield in better condition they could sell you, or restore from a better starting state. Worth asking, and may be cheaper. - How much for them to just do the Playfield touchup, and all physical repairs? ==Mechanics== Get it working mechanically yourself. A well-working table will sell much better than a busted one. Even with sound board issues: Flippers: - should be priority No. 1. They are the link the player has between their fingers and the ball. Critical... - Refurbish all components to new, except for the coil and the mounting plate (based on other posts and your info and photos). - Everyone is right. Spend the money/budget for this. Pops: - Get new bumber skirts (the plastic switch actuators) for all bumpers, even if some are OK. Keep them in stock, or choose to replace all four and start from an as-new baseline (I would). - Check the white plactic hollow things the bumber cap screws into. These may be cracked due to the ball hitting up against the plastic. - Check the contacts, and ensure you give the contacts a polish with a matte business card, or use contact cleaner. Press the business card between the contacts and rub back and forwards to clean. Slings: - Replace the linkages and sleeves. Check for coil stop mushrooming. File back if they are not that bad. - Check the contacts, and ensure you give the contacts a polish with a matte business card. Stand-ups: - You're already on your way with those. See how much a new set it. Never hurts to budget long term. Rubbers: With strong flippers, you need to have good surfaces for the balls to bang up against. Perished, flaky rubbers are not good. They will not protect the 30yr old plastic posts from the shock of a metal ball slamming up against them. Not really optional, and not that expensive to replace a whole set. Use the firepower site as a reference to create a full list of rubbers required. Balls: - With new flippers and rubbers, those balls will be flying fast. So make sure they are in perfect condition. New set of balls. Stop any further playfield wear with smooth, nick-free metal. ==Sound Board== - investigate the cost of a new sound board, or whether you can work around that by researching on the firepower pinball site or other pinball forums. Can you replace the sound board circuitry with a P-ROC board/s (S_S is this possible?) ==Circuit Boards== You know the Driver board and game logic board are working correctly, so that is one less thing to be concerned about. There are some things you should consider doing though. - Ensure you remove each board, and number each plug when you remove each board so you don't mess up the connections. - Reflow silver solder on all connectors. Future proofing, and ensures a good electrical connection. - Research quirks from this era of pinball tables and implement all fixes recommended. - Do a continuity check on all fuses (like another person recommended). And ensure they are the correct ones (you'd be surprised...) ==Cabinet== - Take off all backboard lights and wipe down the white board with windex and a cloth. - Research how to fix the backglass paintjob (not for novices), or get a new repro mylar to replace the damaged one (and a new piece of glass to suit). Which approach is cheaper? - Vacuum out the cabinet, and give it a wipe out. It will make a huge difference when you're working on it. ==LEDs== Installing LEDs into this machine will dramatically increase the reliability of the circuits for General Illumination (GI) and game lights (much less current draw means much less heat on the plugs, and therefore much less chance of dry solder joints in the future). Not to mention it makes the lightshows of this machine look spectacular when played "in the dark". ==SUMMARY== Take your time. Scope everything correctly. Make lists (like I have just done for you as a start). Remember how you go about eating an elephant. One small piece at a time... [/QUOTE]
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