Well, Now I Own A Pinball Machine Too!

[Animator_pin_fan]

Excellent purchase!! I think you did very well for 500 bones, especially since everything is working. And yours looks to be in a little better condition than the one Farsight had up in their offices.
So how does it play? Are you digging the real Firepower more than TPA version?

 

[Jeff Strong]

Maybe you can shed some light on this:

http://digitalpinballfans.com/showthread.php/3575-Kickback-Lane

 

[Animator_pin_fan]

The CPR replacement Firepower playfield costs more than you paid (599), but they sometimes have bargin basement deals if you keep checking back.
http://www.classicplayfields.com/photo102.html

But I'd say get that puppy shopped, and just play it till you're tired of it- surely you'll get what you payed back out of it...

 

[The loafer]

With the flipper issue you mention, you will need a flipper rebuild. Once my firepower had the rebuild done, it was more fun and a worthwhile upgrade.

You got a good deal, give it a good cleaning with novus thne apply the appropriate wax and finally, change the rubbers and the balls and you will see why firepower is known as a fast game.

 

[dtown8532]

Jared made some excellent points so I won't repeat what he said.

1. My first piece of advice is no more playing until you get new balls and have cleaned and waxed the playfield. Continuing to play on a dirty and unwaxed playfield will further wear the paint down, especially in areas that it's already worn.

2. I use Novus 2 for cleaning and straight carnauba wax (no cleaning agents) for waxing. Clean terry cloth towel for applying the Novus and another clean terry cloth towel for wiping it off once it dry's. Same procedure for the wax. Usually two coats of Novus and 2-3 coats of wax.

3. Speaking of cleaning, I still don't like taking everything off at once so I will work on one section of the playfield at a time. This way it's easier to remember how to put it back together. For example, the right flipper area. I would remove the flipper assembly from under the playfield (leaving the coil still soldered) and clean everything. With metal I prefer Never Dull. Wipe it with a piece of the Never Dull, then wipe off with a rag. I remove the plastic sleeve from the coil and either replace it (they're pretty cheap, just get the right length) or clean it in soapy water with a cheapo brass brush (looks like a tooth brush) and a bore brush from a gun cleaning kit. It's important to get the inside of the sleeve clean so the metal plunger can move freely. Check the strength of your springs. In fact, the playfield up (and machine off in the interest of safety) manually move all your coil mechanisms. Do they all move freely? Do the springs push them back with enough strength? Anyway, back to the flipper area. With the flipper off, also remove the right metal inlane/outlane guide. Polish the metal with Never Dull and wipe off with rag. Do the same to the screw heads as well. Replace single 44 bulb with either a 47 (less heat) or a 44 type LED (color is up to you) Take off the plastic nuts that hold on the right slingshot cover. Be careful when putting these back on. They're only plastic, or nylon, but whatever. Point is they crack easily. Take off plastic slingshot cover and clean with warm soapy water while being careful with the artwork on the back. Polish with Novus 1 spray. Remove red plastic posts and clean with warm soapy water and a toothbrush. Remove slingshot assembly and clean like you did to the flipper parts. Check your linkage that attaches to the metal plunger. A little play is ok as long as it's operating fine while playing. Remove 44 bulb and replace like above. Rubber kit will also need to be ordered. Replace all rubbers. See those little metal brass thingy's sticking up next to the sling shot kicker? They're switches and the contacts get dirty. Care must be maintained while cleaning. I use 90% or more alcohol on cheap dollar store q-tips since they don't rip and get fuzzies as easy as the name brand. Gently move the dipped q-tip in between the switch contacts. When cleaning a really tight switch I'll use a business card instead. Alcohol is great for cleaning electronics since it evaporates quickly. It also tastes good too. Anyway, while you have all this off clean this whole area with Novus 2 till it shines and then use the wax. Reassemble and move onto another area.

4. Inserts can be cleaned from under the playfield with windex on a q-tip.

5. One thing to remember is to do everything you're going to do to one area while you have it apart. That way you minimize taking out screws and putting them back in. If you have a worn out hole that won't take the screw, DO NOT use a bigger screw. Break off some toothpicks and plug the hole better. This will give you a better grip.

6. Points about some of the things you said in your photos. Your left inlane/outlane guide should not have a post with a rubber on it at the top. It's just a metal screw inside a metal sleeve. Your broken bumper skirt should be easily replaceable. You need a new flipper bat, also not hard to get. Spacing the targets is done by carefully bending them to where you want them. They'll only go so far and be especially careful with the 30+ year old plastic lollipop target. BUT, check under the playfield where they're mounted. They should be mounted by two front mount screws that are positioned vertically away from the target. These are not common anymore so some people replace with front horizontally mounted one's and didn't drill new holes properly so they'd be out of line. Also, you could just have some loose screws which is another thing to look for everywhere else on the table too. Your table wear is a little worse than mine but I have a spot at each of the slings that needs to be taken care of. The guys are correct in that you can clean it, mylar those areas and you should be fine. Personally, I think I'm gonna try my hand at touching it up before putting the mylar on. I just don't like the idea of putting mylar over bare wood but it's definitely something that I'll have to be very careful with.

7. The white piece of wood that holds the score displays can be cleaned with windex on a rag. Just remove all those bulbs, which by the way, if you're not gonna replace them all, at least replace all the bulbs that have burnt heads. If I was staying with incandescents, I'd replace all the 44's with 47's. All the bulbs in Firepower are these except the two flashers under FIRE and POWER which are 89's.

8. Bottom line is, TAKE YOUR TIME. The machine isn't going anywhere. The sooner you get it cleaned and ready to play the sooner you'll get bored with it and want another. Maybe. For example, today I spent about five hours on mine. What did I accomplish? Disassembly of the coin door mechanism and cleaned along with coin slots. Grounding braid to coin door reconnected by solder (was broken). Removal of power switch and cleaned. Removal of cabinet tilt mechanisms and cleaned. Wiring in this area cleaned with windex and rags. New legs arrived from Pinball Life, installed. Bottom speaker removed and metal parts cleaned with rag and windex. Speaker reattached properly. Was only connected with two screws and ground was not connected. Fixed with four bolts and nuts and ground braid reconnected. All under playfield bulbs removed. Bonus light strip, shoot again and six target light inserts cleaned. Light strip for bonus lights must be removed for replacement of bulbs. Two 5/16" (I think) lock nuts attached to screw in posts hold it on. These bulbs have been replaced with LED's according to Cointaker's kit diagram. That's it. Five hours and that's what I accomplished. It takes time if you really want to get it nice. Well, that's all I got for now. Waiting on my filter caps and fuses so I can get to work inside the backbox.

 

[shutyertrap]

So. Much. Info!

I love it. I went ahead and used some foamy spray into a paper towel and wiped down the playfield. This allowed me to see where wax buildup is and isn't. A lot of the insert lenses seem to be scratched. Would the stuff you use to remove clouding on headlights be used for those? Anyways, after just that little cleaning, I was easily able to hit that back target I couldn't reach beforehand. Hurray!

Played a couple of games, as in actually tried to play, not just check things out. The contacts behind those targets probably are in bad need of cleaning, as unless you hit 'em hard, they don't register. The lack of bounce on the rubber of the flippers reminds me of playing a Zen table!

One thing I didn't mention earlier...I don't have speech in my game. I need a certain soundboard and certain Roms, but have no idea yet where to check what numbers I do have. I went through all the settings, put everything back to factory except for replay, which now gives an extra ball instead. Game was set to 5 balls, put it to 3, much to my son's chagrin.

Neighbor of mine says he knows a place in downtown LA that has pinball parts and stuff, so will have to check that out sometime soon too.

I should really make a checklist.

 

[jaredmorgs]

So. Much. Info!

I love it. I went ahead and used some foamy spray into a paper towel and wiped down the playfield. This allowed me to see where wax buildup is and isn't. A lot of the insert lenses seem to be scratched. Would the stuff you use to remove clouding on headlights be used for those? Anyways, after just that little cleaning, I was easily able to hit that back target I couldn't reach beforehand. Hurray!

Played a couple of games, as in actually tried to play, not just check things out. The contacts behind those targets probably are in bad need of cleaning, as unless you hit 'em hard, they don't register. The lack of bounce on the rubber of the flippers reminds me of playing a Zen table!

One thing I didn't mention earlier...I don't have speech in my game. I need a certain soundboard and certain Roms, but have no idea yet where to check what numbers I do have. I went through all the settings, put everything back to factory except for replay, which now gives an extra ball instead. Game was set to 5 balls, put it to 3, much to my son's chagrin.

Neighbor of mine says he knows a place in downtown LA that has pinball parts and stuff, so will have to check that out sometime soon too.

I should really make a checklist.

www.pbresource.com should be your first stop for getting what you need. Place one order and be done with it. At least check them out.

 

[dtown8532]

So. Much. Info!

I love it. I went ahead and used some foamy spray into a paper towel and wiped down the playfield. This allowed me to see where wax buildup is and isn't. A lot of the insert lenses seem to be scratched. Would the stuff you use to remove clouding on headlights be used for those? Anyways, after just that little cleaning, I was easily able to hit that back target I couldn't reach beforehand. Hurray!

Played a couple of games, as in actually tried to play, not just check things out. The contacts behind those targets probably are in bad need of cleaning, as unless you hit 'em hard, they don't register. The lack of bounce on the rubber of the flippers reminds me of playing a Zen table!

One thing I didn't mention earlier...I don't have speech in my game. I need a certain soundboard and certain Roms, but have no idea yet where to check what numbers I do have. I went through all the settings, put everything back to factory except for replay, which now gives an extra ball instead. Game was set to 5 balls, put it to 3, much to my son's chagrin.

Neighbor of mine says he knows a place in downtown LA that has pinball parts and stuff, so will have to check that out sometime soon too.

I should really make a checklist.

Yes. Looking over your circuit board photo I noticed that your sound board (top right) is not the original. The original is actually two boards connected right next to one another. Look at the photo in my thread to see. So, you're saying you have the sounds but not speech? Then, yes you're missing a ROM chip that contains the speech. ROM or logic chips are the rectangular black plastic things scattered over the circuit boards. I'm not sure which Williams system that sound board is from. But, apparently it works with system 6. My advice on this one is to post your question on Pinside and see what kind of answers you get.

Another thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post is to check all your fuses to make sure they're the correct amperage. The sticker on the inner right side of the backbox tells you the correct amps for the power supply (bottom right board). With the power off take each fuse out and touch each end with a continuity check to make sure they work. firepowerpinball.com also has schematics for other boards. They're two more in the sound board and one in the lower cabinet by the power cable connect.

 

[shutyertrap]

Yes. Looking over your circuit board photo I noticed that your sound board (top right) is not the original. The original is actually two boards connected right next to one another. Look at the photo in my thread to see. So, you're saying you have the sounds but not speech? Then, yes you're missing a ROM chip that contains the speech. ROM or logic chips are the rectangular black plastic things scattered over the circuit boards. I'm not sure which Williams system that sound board is from. But, apparently it works with system 6. My advice on this one is to post your question on Pinside and see what kind of answers you get.

Another thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post is to check all your fuses to make sure they're the correct amperage. The sticker on the inner right side of the backbox tells you the correct amps for the power supply (bottom right board). With the power off take each fuse out and touch each end with a continuity check to make sure they work. firepowerpinball.com also has schematics for other boards. They're two more in the sound board and one in the lower cabinet by the power cable connect.

I need tools. Don't have any kind of meter to read amperage. Don't have soldering iron, nor have I ever used one (uh oh). I took a look at the schematics a bit ago, and my eyes just kinda glazed over! I saw a pic of someone else's sound board and though, mine looks NOTHING like that one! Guess I join pinside and see where it gets me.

Gotta remember to take baby steps here. I can replace light bulbs. I can clean. Rubber kit should be pretty basic. I don't have the know how to do preventative trouble shooting. Not yet at least. Try and get my neighbor (who installs security systems) to become interested in helping me, and then maybe he can teach me some of this stuff.

So, do any stores sell Novus 2?

 

[Mayuh]

You got a bargain! I've never seen table from that time being so clean under the playfield.

From what I've seen, your EOS switches (the long copper ones) on your flipper assemblies are corroded. That means the current has a hard time getting to the coils (which don't have to be replace usually, as they do not wear - but check if the correct ones are installed! I can't read the badge on them from your photos...). Just spent $30 on a rebuild kit and you'll be happy (i found this, so you know what i mean: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=172&pg=1)

Take photos before the disassembly and then tighten the screws as hard as you can, without ruining them. It's really easy to learn how to make the flippers work again.

One trick here to get strong flippers is that the EOS switch has to open its contact at the latest possible moment. The coils are actually two coils: one for the power (which is driven by the current it gets when you press the button) and the hold coil. If it the EOS opens too early the power coil can't develop its full strength as it is switched off to early.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=Firepower

I'd replace all fuses - they are cheap. I really can't tell by your photos, but for me it looks like the upper fuse is blown on your soundboard. Also check if there are any signs of corrosion on the fuse holders.

On a side note, you won't really need some DMM to measure the amps, all you need from a multimeter is its function that beeps to check if the contacts are ok...

Have fun and enjoy!

 

[Carl Spiby]

Good project machine, no too hard to shop either due to no ramps/upper playfield etc.

 

[Mayuh]

Good project machine, no too hard to shop either due to no ramps/upper playfield etc.

Yep, that's exactly what I thought... I remember cleaning a F14 and a No Fear - it literally took hours to just get the ramps removed and re-installed. With a ridiculous amount of photos taken

 

[jaredmorgs]

You could spend another $300-$500 getting the game perfect.

Welcome to pinball ownership: kind of like owning a boat, but at least you get to use it more. ;-)

 

[Carl Spiby]

Wouldn't like the job of touching in the wear on the planet mind you!

 

[Kevlar]

Are there any playfield overlays available for FP?

 

[jaredmorgs]

Wow dude that was a freaking bargain! Here in Australia you'd be paying well over $1000 for a Firepower in that condition.
Good to see that someone down the track moved the batteries off the CPU board, because old leaky batteries have caused a lot of damage to these delicate boards.

Congrats on the purchase!!

True facts, dagwood.

I checked gumtree for the hell of it (Australia-wide), and there were only shopped tables available. And a few suspicious looking EMs that look more trouble than they're worth.

The fire of refurbishment is rekindling in me, but I don't have the wherewithal to pursue it. Guess I'll have to live vicariously through the lucky folk like syt that get an opportunity to get some chrome dust on their hands.

 

[Heretic]

Dont worry jared im gonna apprioate it with a grucho mustach on!

 

[shutyertrap]

Are there any playfield overlays available for FP?

I've been wondering this myself, but have yet to find anything. I'm guessing that back then, the graphics were silk screened right onto the table? This brings up some questions though...

#1 Can I go ahead and strip the field, clean the table good, and then wax as normal, with the intention of dealing with the artwork later?

#2 I have a friend who is one of those guys that loves painting miniature Warhammer figures and the like. I have no doubt he could probably hand paint the worn areas if I gave him good reference material. Would this even be an option, or would that ruin the thing?

#3 If there is a nick in the wood, should I fill it? If so, with what? I know what to use around the house, but not on a table!


The more I look around the web, the more I hear different do's and don'ts, and often they conflict. Everybody says use Novus 2, and then I read something from Tim Arnold and he's saying never use the stuff. I see whole threads on repainting the cabinet, and then I see others where collectors would rather have scratches and dings with the original paint than a new reproduction. I should really think about what I want to get out of this experience I guess!

I should ask this...my backglass is not bad, but there's flaking and the black pin striping around the score boxes is often only half there. Everywhere I read, it says use Krylon Triple Thick to seal it. Should I just go ahead and do that, not worrying about the backglass? Seems nobody tries to paint these since it's a mirrored art. Just wanna be sure.

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

#1 yes
#2 I used to do those. The right paint with a reducer will help it lay flatter but should be cleard after.
#3 I think I read to use an epoxy and again like the paint should be done before its sealed with an automotive clear coat.
Yeah alot of conflicting info on the internet TA is 1 person yeah it's what he does but I have had great results with NOVUS #2 and so have others and almost every pinball parts website sells it, that being said its designed for plastic but with a gentle pressure should be fine.

 

[shimoda]

Get a soldering station. I bought an Aoyue something for about $60 on amazon and also got some extra tips for it. It's less than a similar Hakko station but man was it worth the purchase! There are plenty of kits out there to give you practice, but another way to practice is just to buy some really cheap IC sockets (to practice on that pitch/size) and a bag of resistors. For a few buck on ebay (or order from tayda electronics and get a strip board or two) you can get all the practice you need to get to making clean solders.

What the above posters have said, pinballlife is a good resource as are many others. I'd love to have a Firepower, challenging multiball, old-school, so excellent find there! Either from pinball life or pbresource (Steve Young). Email pbresource and they'll help put together what you need as well. They know what stuff (switches if there are extras on the flipper stack) you'll need and you'll want to replace those as well. I had that with the Bally Space Invaders I just shopped. The switch stacks on the lower and upper flippers had extra switches that aren't typically included (not the EOS ones). You'll want to make absolutely sure your EOS switches are set correctly before using your flipper when you rebuild or you'll melt your coils!

I recommend getting the switch adjustment tool from pbresource as well. 5 bucks well spent!