Well, Now I Own A Pinball Machine Too!

[Animator_pin_fan]

Hey STY,
I know you're already bombarded with tons of info here, but thought I'd also mention (probably mentioned before).

This Old Pinball DVDs are really great because they give you a visual walk through doing mechanical repairs, electronic fixes, and even playfield touchups (including clearcoating).
http://www.pinrepair.com/top/

If you don't already have them, TOP #3, #4, and #7 are pretty much essential viewing if you're just getting started doing pinball shopping/repairs/restorations...

 

[shutyertrap]

Few more pics and such.

First off, in response to my flipper coils, they are 19-400-30-750-DC. I don't see any corrosion on them as though (someone pointed that out). I also have no idea what EOS is, or plunger linkage, so definitions please! I do wonder, my flipper bats, they don't come attached to a rod, right? I was looking up parts and saw there were two different types, with and without, but according to my year of table, it's not supposed to.

Next up, check out the 'fix' that someone did to the right target...

They put in too short a metal plate!

I replaced the batteries today, as judging by the 'best used by' date on them, they hadn't been changed in 15 years. I tried using a Mr. Clean Magik Eraser with alcohol, didn't do much. Sprayed a little Pledge on a paper towel, that did better in terms of picking up grit. I don't know, might be the table is faded, since the only dark spots of black are along the edges.

 

[shutyertrap]

Few more pics, these all relating to what to do to the playfield. First, check this out...

You can see someone tried touching up the paint by hand. It's clumpy and not smooth to the touch. I can flake it away with my fingernail, but it's exposed wood underneath. Should I sand it down or leave it and let the wax take care of smoothing out the surface?

The next pic shows the condition of the actual paint. It's got small cracks that look like scales as you can see here...

It's smooth to the touch though.

Finally, there's what to do about my inserts. They're scratched, bad.

Replacing the solid colored ones, I know that's doable as I've seen them for sale. Can someone tell me how inserts are even held into place? Is it a glue or something?

As for the inserts with the lettering on them...

I know it wasn't, but it's almost like it was a clear sticker over them, and that's starting to flake off. And they're scratched up. What kind of solution for that?

I've got a checklist going, seeing what I can do first. My playfield has no protective coating of any sort on it. There's mylar around the pop bumpers and that's it. Otherwise it's paint on wood. Found another broken plastic, easily replaceable.

 

[dtown8532]

Yes, your flipper bats are attached to rods. If you look at one of your flipper assemblies we'll start with the coil which is the round spool of wire wrapped around a plastic cylinder. Inside the cylinder is a plastic sleeve the metal plunger moves in and out of. Electricity magnetizes the coil which pulls the plunger into it till it hits the metal coil stop. When this happens the motion also moves the EOS (End of Stroke) switch. Manually move the plunger and look at the leaf switches which are next to the assembly. Watch the movement in them. They're little dots on the end of some of them that make and break contact with one another. These are called switch contacts. Now, moving up the plunger, you'll see it attached to a hinge. That's a linkage. Like I said before, a little play is OK as long as its not causing a problem when playing the table. Move just beyond the hinge or linkage and you'll see where the flipper rod is attached to.

Don't worry about the plate for your stand up targets. Some of mine are the correct height, some are bend forward towards the back of the target and one was white which I removed and painted it red to match. What you should do is, once you clean them, cut some small pieces of self adhesive weather stripping and apply to the back of each. These six targets take A LOT of beating and this will minimize impact. Some pinball places sell fancy ones but weather stripping you buy at Home Depot or Lowes is just fine. Here's a pic of mine which I finished today. For the plates that are bent forward I just applied them to the back of the target. I also had to re-glue the stickers since they came off and aftermarket one's are CRAZY expensive. You can also see that I cleaned a little behind the left bank. Big difference from the right, eh? And that's just one coat of Novus 2.


image hosting no account

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

Inserts stickers are like model stickers or plastic. Those arnt really scratches on the insert plastic ist been brushed...this machine has seen mor erepairs than originally thought. Thats not to short of a metal piece its been broken, there should be foam padding behid those stationary targets. looks like your flippers have a steel rod in them if your not sure oreder 1 of each
EOS End Of Stroke older machines have this I think it had to do with cutting the voltage to the flipper so it wouldnt burn out the coil by reducing the voltage when its held up. SYT follow my thread it will give you a good compass on what to do, sure every machine is different and I have 2 examples fire me a PM and i'll search for info too. Not to disregard everybody elses info as its relavent its just too much for a "NOOB" like I said baby steps and you will not get overwhelmed. I want you to enjoy this table as much as you do.

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

When removing star posts keep a slight upward pressure this will stop the bottom cleat from falling off.

 

[dtown8532]

Scales, don't worry about. Waxing will keep that in check. Those are decals on your multiplier lights and in several other places on the playfield. My FIRE and POWER one's are pretty bad but I'm not crazy about buying a replacement set (all of them) for forty bucks. As far as the touch up goes, unless you want to redo it yourself, just clean and wax and leave it alone. I wouldn't mess around with inserts if you don't have to. The Novus and wax will hide most of those scratches.

On a side note, I totally agree with Animator. The This Old Pinball DVD's are excellent and the proceeds go towards The Pinball Hall Of Fame. Each one is nine bucks or so and is two hours long. I have the one's Animator mentioned and the system 80 two parter as well.

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

Is that a bulb socket under the pop bumper activater? right where its cracked!? that needs to be recessed so the plastic doesnt hit it when its replaced.

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

PS3 chat mister! use that eyetoy just collecting dust!

 

[dtown8532]

Is that a bulb socket under the pop bumper activater? right where its cracked!? that needs to be recessed so the plastic doesnt hit it when its replaced.

Nah, it's one of the three mounts for the pop bumper assembly bracket that connects under the playfield.

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

its protruding enough it seems to be the culprit, I havnt any pops on my machines. YET! dtown maybe we could do a group PS3 chat video I want to see this thing through as if it were my own

 

[Mayuh]

Yep, it's a corroded contact on the EOS. I had the same thing on my Taxi and after ignoring it, it got weaker and weaker and finally burned my coil, as it automagically 'welded' itself together...

I can only recommend to do yourself a favor and replace the whole assembly. This way you have brand new flipper fingers (which help the machine to look fresh, as your eyes always rest on them) and you don't have to worry about strength etc. for 5 years... Except for that nylon sleeves of course.

I bet the plunger in the coil itself is flat on its end too (from hammering against the coil stop, which is probably flat too) this causes friction in the nylon sleeve, which then again is not too good for flipper's strength... On the opposite side of the plunger, where it touches that metal plate in its rest position, I can't see any rubber that could dampen the motion either...



You don't even have to solder too much, as the coil remains connected with its wires - you only have to solder the wires to the new EOS contact. What I did was to de solder the wire from the original, solder it onto the new one accordingly. One at a time... So you don't have to be an expert

For a description of the parts http://www.habosarcade.com/Pinball Shop Out.htm half way down the page (or search the page for 'rebuilding your flippers')

Well, I know it's way too much info you get, but I think we're all enthusiasts

 

[shutyertrap]

So Mayuh, what you're essentially saying is buy the flipper kit! I don't need to replace the coil, just everything attached to it. Something like this...

That's the one for Williams System 6 games. $21, at pinballlife.com

pbresource.com has one with a few extra parts (looks little different too) for $36

We'll see what the budget allows after I get everything else I need first (rubber, bulbs, etc)

 

[shimoda]

Pinball life will be a good source and yes, get the rebuild kit. If the coil is pulling it should be fine.

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

You are missing the rubber bumper at the resting end of the bracket if there is no hole for one then they take an adhesive rubber pad this will help the rod line up more straight. That brown wire with E-tape looks fishy.

 

[Mayuh]

Yes, basically that's what I'm saying but also get the flippers and their axis replaced (5 bucks for the flippers 90 cents for the axis times two)

Man, you are really lucky I'm trying to find a space shuttle for a decent price here... Nothing below €1000... Weird! We just got a NBA fast break for a mere 700 - and ths a DMD!

Enjoy and don't rush the rebuild

Mario.

 

[shutyertrap]

We just got a NBA fast break for a mere 700 - and ths a DMD!

Enjoy and don't rush the rebuild

Mario.

I'd trade this thing so fast for an NBA Fastbreak! That has everything I want in a pin...ramps, modes, fun multi player, combo shots and aimed shots. Anyways...

My bank account won't let me rush this

I'm trying to prioritize what needs to get done, like cleaning the playfield and waxing it, over what I want to get done. As I said originally, the mechanics all work. Yeah, I'll buy a flipper kit eventually, but for now I'll probably settle for just taking apart and cleaning what I already have. Apart from the flipper rubber, all the other rubber is pretty springy. No, not new springy (as I'm pretty sure none of it has been changed in the past 15 years), but I've only found one truly cracked rubber, and it is in a totally non essential spot. I'm gonna replace all the bulbs with 47's, they're cheap. I want to also replace the pop skirts that are broken, as they're less than a buck each.

I am bummed I have no speech out of my soundboard. Need to investigate what to do about that. I noticed that on the score display for player 3 and 4, there are digits that are starting to fade. There's something that is way too expensive for me to worry about.

Here's what I did today...cleaned the table legs! Took steel wool to them, scrubbed most of the rust off, both front and back. Put on some metal polish, got 'em shiny. I wanted to replace the footies, but couldn't find any at Lowe's or a local hardware store. Same for replacing stripped leg bolt I have. One of my footies is completely stripped too, so for right now I just have a lag bolt for a foot. I also set the table to 5 and some change incline, as that seemed what was recommended. I put weather stripping foam behind the 9 targets. I'm not happy with the contact points on 2 of them, the ball really has to whack 'em hard to count. Couldn't bend 'em closer from up top, so it looks like I'll have to take 'em off from the bottom and deal with it that way.

Wonder what I'll do tomorrow.

 

[shutyertrap]

Okay, so lemme be clear about this first...I own a pinball machine, something I didn't think would happen for years and years.

Now, onto the moaning and groaning (so that you guys can make me feel better)!

I've been taking long, slow looks up close at various aspects of the machine. It truly is fascinating to me, and there are so many things about a pinball table in general that I just took for granted about working, and now I'm seeing how it actually does. However, when you stare at something too long, you start to see nothing but things that are wrong, thanks to previous owners.

For instance, the wonky post and large hole near it by the left inlane/outlane.

Well, turns out it's supposed to be a screw that is holding up the end of the metal ball guide. Except the tip of the ball guide is broken, so the post is a bit lower than it should be. But then I got to thinking, "I'll just put the post in the original spot until I can get a screw and sheath like it should have, and maybe one day I'll find a replacement metal piece too."

I was thinking about what I should use to fill the hole so I could start fresh, when I started poking around in it. Whaddya know, but the screw is still in there, it's just busted off! So now I gotta figure out a way to get that out if I ever wanna put things right.

I also started wondering about the paint "touch-ups" that were done to the playfield at various spots, the main one being right at the top of the planet. Look closely...

...black is not supposed to be coming down onto the planet in a spike like the red lasers! This makes me wonder, would it be better if I sanded down the paint (which is kinda clumpy to begin with) and had another raw wood spot like just below? Because now when I look at it, all I see is how wrong that is!

I guess what's ultimately bugging me is not that I bought the table, but that I paid too much. I didn't know squat about it (I play TPA on PSN, and it came out the same day I bought the table), but had I known, I coulda pointed these things out to the seller, negotiated with that knowledge. I have the wrong soundboard (correct sound rom), so the table has no speech. Anybody familiar with the game would have noticed that upon start-up. I didn't notice the wrong colored lane plastics at the top of the table, the cracked plastic on the flipper and pop bumpers.

As I've said before, I'm usually meticulous about knowing everything I can when it comes to a big ticket purchase. I need to get over this feeling of "I should have known better", because if I had, I wouldn't have a pinball machine in my garage this evening. I watch these car restoration shows, and they seem to revel in bringing something back to sparkling life. I need to become that guy.

When I came home with my Firepower, I told myself that even if it were a mistake, I could flip it easily and set things right. Well, I'd like to set things right, and then think about trading up. Later. Maybe a lot later. My brain has been going a mile a minute thinking of all the things I need to do, how much it's gonna cost, how much should I even put into it and still expect to come out ahead.

I need to slow the hell down. I need to be patient. I need revel in owning something I couldn't even see a way of having, rather than wallow like a spoiled child in what I have.

See that? I'm already starting to feel good again. Damn, you guys are good!

 

[SKILL_SHOT]

Well first off...youve learned alot and I suspect how the guy sold it to you for all you dont know it was a show. your best bet is to recoup your spending, this means fix it up best you can and get rid of it and be HONEST! its a project you took on that you wernt ready for. If you make $1 you have a story and $1+valuable knowledge next time...but it your 1st

 

[jaredmorgs]

Well first off...youve learned alot and I suspect how the guy sold it to you for all you dont know it was a show. your best bet is to recoup your spending, this means fix it up best you can and get rid of it and be HONEST! its a project you took on that you wernt ready for. If you make $1 you have a story and $1+valuable knowledge next time...but it your 1st

I'm with S_S on this. You can look at it two ways. A $500 mistake, or a $500 golden opportunity.

Use it as your "roughy" to experiment on and cut your restoration teeth on. Here are some approaches based on what you've told us so far.

==Playfield==

=DIY=

Learn from it.

- check for Planet overlays.
- investigate how to service the playfield lenses (drill out/heat gun out and touch up numbers?)
- practice mixing paint and matching colours
- research which paint is best
- watch heaps of YouTube videos on pait restoration.
- watch heaps of videos on automotive clear-coating (basically what Diamond Plate on modern playfields is).

=Outsource=

TNT Amusements can quote you as a starting point (I would recommend them from the quality of their YouTube restoration videos). They have turned around absolutely shocking tables for around $1000. Expect *far less* if you only want the playfield touched-up and protected with mylar.

- source info about how much it would cost to get the playfield restored (minor touch-up is within the realms of a novice, but not planet repair...)
- Ask the dudes on Craigs List that restore and sell. They may be cheaper than TNT.
- strip the playfield and ship it, or send the machine over and have them restore the playfield? Ask them what is better/easier/most cost effective.
- Someone may even have an old FP playfield in better condition they could sell you, or restore from a better starting state. Worth asking, and may be cheaper.
- How much for them to just do the Playfield touchup, and all physical repairs?

==Mechanics==

Get it working mechanically yourself. A well-working table will sell much better than a busted one. Even with sound board issues:

Flippers:
- should be priority No. 1. They are the link the player has between their fingers and the ball. Critical...
- Refurbish all components to new, except for the coil and the mounting plate (based on other posts and your info and photos).
- Everyone is right. Spend the money/budget for this.

Pops:
- Get new bumber skirts (the plastic switch actuators) for all bumpers, even if some are OK. Keep them in stock, or choose to replace all four and start from an as-new baseline (I would).
- Check the white plactic hollow things the bumber cap screws into. These may be cracked due to the ball hitting up against the plastic.
- Check the contacts, and ensure you give the contacts a polish with a matte business card, or use contact cleaner. Press the business card between the contacts and rub back and forwards to clean.

Slings:
- Replace the linkages and sleeves. Check for coil stop mushrooming. File back if they are not that bad.
- Check the contacts, and ensure you give the contacts a polish with a matte business card.

Stand-ups:
- You're already on your way with those. See how much a new set it. Never hurts to budget long term.

Rubbers:

With strong flippers, you need to have good surfaces for the balls to bang up against. Perished, flaky rubbers are not good. They will not protect the 30yr old plastic posts from the shock of a metal ball slamming up against them. Not really optional, and not that expensive to replace a whole set. Use the firepower site as a reference to create a full list of rubbers required.

Balls:

- With new flippers and rubbers, those balls will be flying fast. So make sure they are in perfect condition.
New set of balls. Stop any further playfield wear with smooth, nick-free metal.

==Sound Board==

- investigate the cost of a new sound board, or whether you can work around that by researching on the firepower pinball site or other pinball forums. Can you replace the sound board circuitry with a P-ROC board/s (S_S is this possible?)

==Circuit Boards==

You know the Driver board and game logic board are working correctly, so that is one less thing to be concerned about. There are some things you should consider doing though.
- Ensure you remove each board, and number each plug when you remove each board so you don't mess up the connections.
- Reflow silver solder on all connectors. Future proofing, and ensures a good electrical connection.
- Research quirks from this era of pinball tables and implement all fixes recommended.
- Do a continuity check on all fuses (like another person recommended). And ensure they are the correct ones (you'd be surprised...)

==Cabinet==

- Take off all backboard lights and wipe down the white board with windex and a cloth.
- Research how to fix the backglass paintjob (not for novices), or get a new repro mylar to replace the damaged one (and a new piece of glass to suit). Which approach is cheaper?
- Vacuum out the cabinet, and give it a wipe out. It will make a huge difference when you're working on it.

==LEDs==

Installing LEDs into this machine will dramatically increase the reliability of the circuits for General Illumination (GI) and game lights (much less current draw means much less heat on the plugs, and therefore much less chance of dry solder joints in the future). Not to mention it makes the lightshows of this machine look spectacular when played "in the dark".

==SUMMARY==

Take your time. Scope everything correctly. Make lists (like I have just done for you as a start).

Remember how you go about eating an elephant. One small piece at a time...